Rose embroidery patterns
Thirty one rose transfers, free to print at actual size, each with a numbered stitch key. Pick by bloom stage, layout, stitch, size or drawing style.
What is the difference between an embroidery pattern and a cross stitch chart?
A cross stitch chart is a counted grid: one square is one stitch and you count your way across it. An embroidery pattern is a line drawing you trace onto fabric and then work freehand, so nothing is counted. The key names a stitch and a thread for each line rather than a colour for each square.
The easiest pattern on this page is One Line Rose Embroidery Pattern. Learn its stitches step by step further down.
By bloom stage
The same flower drawn six times over as it opens and then goes over: a bud still closed under its sepals, one breaking open with two petals reflexed, a bloom fully out and seen face on, one a day past its best with two petals already on the table, the hip that is left in October, and a single branch carrying three of those stages at once so you can compare them while you stitch.
A bud still closed, drawn as one narrow cup with two petal edges curled inside it, three sepals clasping the base and a short straight stem. Back stitch throughout, which makes it the first rose to try.
Stitch key
1 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Bud outline work the outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Petal edges inside the bud work each line left to right, one at a time 3 Back stitch · SZ25 Pine · Sepals work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 4 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem work the line top to bottom, thread always on the same sideYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 50 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 40 cm · SZ25 Pine 70 cmWork order
- Bud outline (1)
- Petal edges inside the bud (2)
- Sepals (3)
- Stem (4)
The moment a bud breaks: the cup is still tall and closed at the heart while two outer petals have peeled back and curl over at the tip. One leaf on the stem keeps it from looking top heavy.
Stitch key
1 Stem stitch · SZ12 Rose · Cup and reflexed petals work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map, thread always on the same side 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Petal curls in the heart work each line left to right, one at a time 3 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem work the line top to bottom, thread always on the same side 4 Back stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaf outline work the outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 5 Split stitch · SZ25 Pine · Leaf vein work the line left to rightYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 80 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 40 cm · SZ25 Pine 60 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 40 cmWork order
- Cup and reflexed petals (1)
- Petal curls in the heart (2)
- Stem (3)
- Leaf outline (4)
- Leaf vein (5)
A rose wide open and seen straight on. Seven petal lobes make the silhouette, three long curves wrap round each other inside it and a spiral runs into the heart, which is the order you stitch it in too.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Petal silhouette work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Stem stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Wrapped petal curves work each line down towards the left, one at a time, thread always on the same side 3 Whipped back stitch · SZ13 Cherry Red · Spiral heart work the line right to left, then whip back over itYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 13 cm hoop · SZ12 Rose 1.4 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.2 m · SZ13 Cherry Red 40 cmWork order
- Petal silhouette (1)
- Wrapped petal curves (2)
- Spiral heart (3)
A rose a day past its best: nine shallow lobes instead of seven so the outline sags, the heart opened right out, and two petals already on the table below it. Five French knots stand in for shed pollen.
Stitch key
1 Stem stitch · SZ11 Bubblegum · Slackened petal silhouette work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, thread always on the same side 2 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Open heart curves work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Back stitch · SZ10 Blush Pink · Fallen petals work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 4 French knot · SZ38 Mustard · Shed pollen work the knots last, on the printed spotsYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ11 Bubblegum 90 cm · SZ12 Rose 90 cm · SZ10 Blush Pink 50 cm · SZ38 Mustard 50 cmWork order
- Slackened petal silhouette (1)
- Open heart curves (2)
- Fallen petals (3)
- Shed pollen (4)
What is left in October: a round hip drawn as a wide oval, the dried crown of five points still sitting on top of it, and a stem carrying two thorns and one late leaf.
Stitch key
1 Satin stitch · SZ37 Terracotta · Hip fill the shape with parallel strokes laid side to side 2 Straight stitch · SZ34 Chocolate · Dried crown work each line right to left, one at a time 3 Stem stitch · SZ23 Olive · Stem and thorns work each line top to bottom, one at a time, thread always on the same side 4 Back stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaf work the outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the mapYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ37 Terracotta 3.2 m · SZ34 Chocolate 40 cm · SZ23 Olive 40 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 30 cmWork order
- Dried crown (2)
- Stem and thorns (3)
- Leaf (4)
- Hip (1)
One branch carrying all three stages at once so you can see the difference while you stitch: a closed bud on the short shoot, a half open rose in the middle and a bloom fully out on the tallest stem.
Stitch key
1 Stem stitch · SZ12 Rose · Bud and half open rose work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map, thread always on the same side 2 Chain stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Open bloom silhouette work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 3 Back stitch · SZ13 Cherry Red · Petal curves and hearts work each line left to right, one at a time 4 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Branch and stems work each line down towards the right, one at a time, thread always on the same side 5 Back stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the mapYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 1.0 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 80 cm · SZ13 Cherry Red 1.0 m · SZ25 Pine 80 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 50 cmWork order
- Bud and half open rose (1)
- Open bloom silhouette (2)
- Petal curves and hearts (3)
- Branch and stems (4)
- Leaves (5)
By arrangement
Six layouts for the same subject, because where a piece can go is decided by its shape long before it is decided by its drawing. A single long stem for a placket, a spray of three, a ring wreath with an empty middle for a name, an L that hugs a napkin corner, a repeat you can carry along a hem, and a swag that hangs from two top corners.
One rose on a stem long enough to run down a shirt placket or a bookmark: the bloom sits at the top, two leaves break the stem at different heights so it does not read as a stick, and three thorns face outward.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Bloom silhouette work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Petal wraps and heart work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem and thorns work each line top to bottom, one at a time, thread always on the same side 4 Back stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaf outlines work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 5 Split stitch · SZ25 Pine · Leaf veins work each line left to right, one at a timeYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 90 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 70 cm · SZ25 Pine 1.0 m · SZ24 Leaf Green 50 cmWork order
- Bloom silhouette (1)
- Petal wraps and heart (2)
- Stem and thorns (3)
- Leaf outlines (4)
- Leaf veins (5)
Three roses branching from a single point, deliberately unequal: a big one high on the left, a middle one at the centre and a small one dropping right, which is the imbalance that keeps a spray from looking like a bouquet.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Bloom silhouettes work each outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Petal wraps and hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Branching stems work each line top to bottom, one at a time, thread always on the same side 4 Back stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 5 French knot · SZ21 Sunflower · Filler buds work the knots last, on the printed spotsYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 1.7 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.4 m · SZ25 Pine 90 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 80 cm · SZ21 Sunflower 50 cmWork order
- Bloom silhouettes (1)
- Petal wraps and hearts (2)
- Branching stems (3)
- Leaves (4)
- Filler buds (5)
A ring of five roses with leaf pairs filling the gaps between them, drawn on a circle so the middle stays empty for a name, a date or nothing at all. It is the piece that made hoop art a thing.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Rose silhouettes work each outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Rose hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Back stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 4 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Connecting vine work each line top to bottom, one at a time, thread always on the same side 5 French knot · SZ10 Blush Pink · Small buds work the knots last, on the printed spotsYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 15 cm hoop · SZ12 Rose 2.2 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.7 m · SZ24 Leaf Green 1.3 m · SZ25 Pine 1.0 m · SZ10 Blush Pink 70 cmWork order
- Rose silhouettes (1)
- Rose hearts (2)
- Leaves (3)
- Connecting vine (4)
- Small buds (5)
An L that hugs the corner of a napkin, a handkerchief or a pillowcase: a vine turning through ninety degrees with a big rose at the elbow, a smaller one trailing off along one arm and leaves down the other.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ11 Bubblegum · Rose silhouettes work each outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Rose hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Stem stitch · SZ23 Olive · Corner vine work the line down towards the right, thread always on the same side 4 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Small leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tipYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ11 Bubblegum 1.1 m · SZ12 Rose 90 cm · SZ23 Olive 70 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 90 cmWork order
- Rose silhouettes (1)
- Rose hearts (2)
- Corner vine (3)
- Small leaves (4)
One rose and leaf unit printed three times on a waving vine, so you can trace the repeat once and then carry it along a hem for as long as the hem is. Three repeats are shown only so the join is visible.
Stitch key
1 Stem stitch · SZ23 Olive · Waving vine work the line left to right, thread always on the same side 2 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Rose silhouettes work each outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 3 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Rose hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 4 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tipYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ23 Olive 80 cm · SZ12 Rose 1.2 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 90 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 90 cmWork order
- Waving vine (1)
- Rose silhouettes (2)
- Rose hearts (3)
- Leaves (4)
A garland that hangs rather than sits: the vine drops in a shallow curve from one top corner to the other, three roses cluster at the low point and the leaves thin out towards each end.
Stitch key
1 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Swag vine work the line left to right, thread always on the same side 2 Chain stitch · SZ11 Bubblegum · Rose silhouettes work each outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 3 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Rose hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 4 Lazy daisy · SZ39 Fern · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tip 5 French knot · SZ10 Blush Pink · Buds along the vine work the knots last, on the printed spotsYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ25 Pine 70 cm · SZ11 Bubblegum 1.4 m · SZ12 Rose 1.1 m · SZ39 Fern 1.0 m · SZ10 Blush Pink 50 cmWork order
- Swag vine (1)
- Rose silhouettes (2)
- Rose hearts (3)
- Leaves (4)
- Buds along the vine (5)
By the stitch it teaches
Seven roses picked for what each one makes you learn, and drawn for that stitch rather than adapted to it: outline in back stitch and nothing else, petals shaped to be filled with satin, a woven wheel over five spokes with its foundation printed, a coil of nine bullion knots, buds made entirely of detached chain loops, a heart packed with French knots, and a rose banded for long and short shading.
Every line here is a line, and there is not one filled shape in the drawing: silhouette, three inner curves, spiral heart, stem and two leaves, all of it back stitch and stem stitch. Nothing to unpick and nothing to learn first.
Stitch key
1 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Petal silhouette work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map 2 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Inner petal curves work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Spiral heart work the line right to left 4 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem work the line top to bottom, thread always on the same side 5 Back stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the mapYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 10 cm hoop · SZ12 Rose 1.2 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 30 cm · SZ25 Pine 30 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 40 cmWork order
- Petal silhouette (1)
- Inner petal curves (2)
- Spiral heart (3)
- Stem (4)
- Leaves (5)
Drawn for filling rather than outlining: five petals sit as separate closed shapes round a filled centre, each one small enough that a satin stitch crosses it in a single span without sagging in the middle.
Stitch key
1 Satin stitch · SZ12 Rose · Outer petals fill each shape with parallel strokes laid side to side 2 Satin stitch · SZ10 Blush Pink · Inner petals fill each shape with parallel strokes sloping down to the right 3 Satin stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Centre fill the shape with parallel strokes laid side to side 4 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves behind the flower work each petal loop from its base out to the tipYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 12 cm hoop · SZ12 Rose 11.3 m · SZ10 Blush Pink 2.6 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 60 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 70 cmWork order
- Leaves behind the flower (4)
- Outer petals (1)
- Inner petals (2)
- Centre (3)
Three woven wheel roses with their foundation drawn in: five spokes each, because the weave only works over an odd number, and the spiral that gets woven under and over them printed on top so you can see where it goes.
Stitch key
1 Straight stitch · SZ36 Sand · Five spoke foundation work each line bottom to top, one at a time 2 Woven wheel rose · SZ12 Rose · Woven spiral weave over and under the spokes, round and round 3 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tip 4 French knot · SZ10 Blush Pink · Filler knots work the knots last, on the printed spotsYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ36 Sand 80 cm · SZ12 Rose 2.0 m · SZ24 Leaf Green 80 cm · SZ10 Blush Pink 50 cmWork order
- Five spoke foundation (1)
- Leaves (3)
- Woven spiral (2)
- Filler knots (4)
The rolled knot rose, drawn as the nine curved strokes it is actually made of: three short ones coiled tight in the middle and six longer ones laid round them, each one a separate bullion worked over its own line.
Stitch key
1 Bullion knot · SZ14 Deep Berry · Centre bullions wrap each coil to match its printed length 2 Bullion knot · SZ12 Rose · Outer bullions wrap each coil to match its printed length 3 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tip 4 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem work the line top to bottom, thread always on the same sideYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 10 cm hoop · SZ14 Deep Berry 70 cm · SZ12 Rose 1.9 m · SZ24 Leaf Green 60 cm · SZ25 Pine 30 cmWork order
- Stem (4)
- Leaves (3)
- Centre bullions (1)
- Outer bullions (2)
Seven rosebuds where every petal is one detached chain loop: a plump bud loop with two thinner green loops crossing under it, repeated up a scattered row. The whole row is about twenty minutes of stitching.
Stitch key
1 Lazy daisy · SZ12 Rose · Bud loops work each petal loop from its base out to the tip 2 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Sepal loops work each petal loop from its base out to the tip 3 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Short stems work each line top to bottom, one at a time, thread always on the same sideYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 1.0 m · SZ24 Leaf Green 1.3 m · SZ25 Pine 50 cmWork order
- Short stems (3)
- Bud loops (1)
- Sepal loops (2)
An open flat rose whose whole centre is knots: nineteen French knots packed into the heart in two rings and one middle knot, with a loose scatter of seed stitches outside the petals to soften the edge.
Stitch key
1 Stem stitch · SZ11 Bubblegum · Petal silhouette work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, thread always on the same side 2 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Petal divisions work each line bottom to top, one at a time 3 French knot · SZ38 Mustard · Knotted heart work the knots last, on the printed spots 4 Seed stitch · SZ10 Blush Pink · Seed scatter scatter the little stitches at changing anglesYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 10 cm hoop · SZ11 Bubblegum 90 cm · SZ12 Rose 50 cm · SZ38 Mustard 1.1 m · SZ10 Blush Pink 50 cmWork order
- Petal silhouette (1)
- Petal divisions (2)
- Knotted heart (3)
- Seed scatter (4)
A rose divided for shading: each of the five petals carries two curved bands across it, so you can work a dark thread into the base band, a mid tone into the second and the palest at the tip and let them blur.
Stitch key
1 Long and short stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Petal base band, darkest fill each shape with parallel strokes laid top to bottom 2 Long and short stitch · SZ12 Rose · Petal middle band fill each shape with parallel strokes laid top to bottom 3 Long and short stitch · SZ10 Blush Pink · Petal tip band, palest fill each shape with parallel strokes laid top to bottom 4 Split stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Padding outline under the shading work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 5 Satin stitch · SZ38 Mustard · Centre fill the shape with parallel strokes laid side to sideYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 12 cm hoop · SZ14 Deep Berry 2.8 m · SZ12 Rose 80 cm · SZ10 Blush Pink 40 cm · SZ38 Mustard 90 cmWork order
- Padding outline under the shading (4)
- Petal base band, darkest (1)
- Petal middle band (2)
- Petal tip band, palest (3)
- Centre (5)
By size and where it goes
Six pieces at six scales, each measured for the thing it is going on: three centimetres for the corner of a shirt pocket, a mirrored pair for two collar points, a band shallow enough to sit between the rows of stitching on a cuff, one composition for a ten centimetre hoop and another for a fifteen, and a deliberately oversized panel for a tote.
Thirty millimetres wide, which is as small as a rose gets before the heart turns into a blob. One bud, two leaves and nothing else, worked in a single strand of thread rather than the usual two.
Stitch key
1 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Bud outline work the outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Bud heart work each line left to right, one at a time 3 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tipYou need
1 strand · embroidery needle size 9 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 30 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 30 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 40 cmWork order
- Bud outline (1)
- Bud heart (2)
- Leaves (3)
Two sprigs that mirror each other, one for each collar point, printed the right distance apart so you can fold the sheet down the middle to check the pair before you trace either half.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Rose silhouettes work each outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Rose hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Sprig stems work each line left to right, one at a time, thread always on the same side 4 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tipYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 90 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 70 cm · SZ25 Pine 40 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 90 cmWork order
- Rose silhouettes (1)
- Rose hearts (2)
- Sprig stems (3)
- Leaves (4)
A band twenty two millimetres deep, which is what fits between the two rows of stitching on a shirt cuff, and half a metre of it is one evening. Four small roses alternate with leaf pairs along a straight rail.
Stitch key
1 Stem stitch · SZ23 Olive · Straight rail work the line left to right, thread always on the same side 2 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Small rose outlines work each outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map 3 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Rose hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 4 Back stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaf pairs work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the mapYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ23 Olive 60 cm · SZ12 Rose 80 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.0 m · SZ24 Leaf Green 80 cmWork order
- Straight rail (1)
- Small rose outlines (2)
- Rose hearts (3)
- Leaf pairs (4)
Sized so the composition stops nine millimetres inside the ring of a ten centimetre hoop, which is the gap you need for the fabric to be gripped without the outer leaves disappearing under the rim.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Main bloom work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Bloom heart and bud hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Stem stitch · SZ11 Bubblegum · Side buds work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map, thread always on the same side 4 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tip 5 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stems work each line top to bottom, one at a time, thread always on the same sideYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 10 cm hoop · SZ12 Rose 90 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.0 m · SZ11 Bubblegum 60 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 80 cm · SZ25 Pine 50 cmWork order
- Main bloom (1)
- Bloom heart and bud hearts (2)
- Side buds (3)
- Stems (5)
- Leaves (4)
The big one: three roses of different sizes filling a fifteen centimetre hoop, two buds tucked into the gaps and leaves reaching to the edge, which is roughly an evening and a half of stitching.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Rose silhouettes work each outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Rose hearts work each line down towards the left, one at a time 3 Stem stitch · SZ11 Bubblegum · Buds work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map, thread always on the same side 4 Lazy daisy · SZ24 Leaf Green · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tip 5 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stems work each line top to bottom, one at a time, thread always on the same side 6 French knot · SZ22 Butter · Knot filler work the knots last, on the printed spotsYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 15 cm hoop · SZ12 Rose 2.1 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.9 m · SZ11 Bubblegum 60 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 1.2 m · SZ25 Pine 90 cm · SZ22 Butter 50 cmWork order
- Rose silhouettes (1)
- Rose hearts (2)
- Buds (3)
- Stems (5)
- Leaves (4)
- Knot filler (6)
Deliberately oversized and deliberately simple: one big bloom, a thick stem and three broad leaves, all of it drawn in lines heavy enough to survive on canvas and to be seen from across a room.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ13 Cherry Red · Bloom silhouette work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Chain stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Petal wraps and heart work each line down towards the left, one at a time, each loop holding the last 3 Couching · SZ25 Pine · Thick stem lay the long threads first, then tie them down with tiny crosses 4 Chain stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Broad leaves work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 5 Split stitch · SZ23 Olive · Leaf veins work each line left to right, one at a timeYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ13 Cherry Red 1.5 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.9 m · SZ25 Pine 30 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 1.3 m · SZ23 Olive 50 cmWork order
- Bloom silhouette (1)
- Petal wraps and heart (2)
- Broad leaves (4)
- Leaf veins (5)
- Thick stem (3)
By drawing style
Six roses that differ in how they are drawn rather than in what they show, because a botanical plate and a folk motif answer completely different searches. A study sheet with serrated leaves and a hip, a painted tray folk rose, one unbroken line that never lifts, an angular version made of straight runs only, a solid silhouette, and a whiplash art nouveau stem.
A study sheet rather than a bouquet: one bloom in profile, one bud, one hip and two properly serrated leaves on a single stem, the way a plate in an old botany book lays a plant out.
Stitch key
1 Split stitch · SZ12 Rose · Bloom in profile work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Petal detail work each line left to right, one at a time 3 Split stitch · SZ11 Bubblegum · Bud work the outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 4 Satin stitch · SZ37 Terracotta · Hip fill the shape with parallel strokes laid side to side 5 Back stitch · SZ23 Olive · Serrated leaves work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 6 Split stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem and veins work each line top to bottom, one at a timeYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 1.0 m · SZ14 Deep Berry 60 cm · SZ11 Bubblegum 40 cm · SZ37 Terracotta 2.4 m · SZ23 Olive 70 cm · SZ25 Pine 1.0 mWork order
- Bloom in profile (1)
- Petal detail (2)
- Bud (3)
- Serrated leaves (5)
- Stem and veins (6)
- Hip (4)
The rose that painted trays and Nordic mittens use: a plain round body with a spiral in it and six perfect circles arranged behind, drawn with a compass rather than from a flower.
Stitch key
1 Chain stitch · SZ13 Cherry Red · Round body work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 2 Whipped back stitch · SZ22 Butter · Spiral heart work the line top to bottom, then whip back over it 3 Satin stitch · SZ11 Bubblegum · Round petals fill each shape with parallel strokes laid side to side 4 Lazy daisy · SZ39 Fern · Leaves work each petal loop from its base out to the tipYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · 10 cm hoop · SZ13 Cherry Red 80 cm · SZ22 Butter 60 cm · SZ11 Bubblegum 9.6 m · SZ39 Fern 60 cmWork order
- Round body (1)
- Spiral heart (2)
- Leaves (4)
- Round petals (3)
One unbroken curve from the heart outward, never lifting and never crossing itself, which means one thread, one knot at the start and one at the end. The last turn and a half breaks into five lobes.
Stitch key
1 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · The single line work the line left to right 2 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem work the line left to right, thread always on the same sideYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.1 m · SZ25 Pine 30 cmWork order
- The single line (1)
- Stem (2)
Every line in this one is straight. The spiral turns at six fixed angles inside a hexagon and the two leaves are triangles, so the whole thing can be worked by counting rather than by following a curve.
Stitch key
1 Back stitch · SZ12 Rose · Hexagonal spiral work the line down towards the left 2 Back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Outer hexagon work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map 3 Straight stitch · SZ24 Leaf Green · Angular leaves work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 4 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem work the line top to bottom, thread always on the same sideYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ12 Rose 80 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 70 cm · SZ24 Leaf Green 50 cm · SZ25 Pine 30 cmWork order
- Hexagonal spiral (1)
- Outer hexagon (2)
- Angular leaves (3)
- Stem (4)
The flower filled solid in one thread with no outline at all, then three fold lines worked back over the top in a pale sand so the petals separate again. Two filled leaves sit behind it in pine green.
Stitch key
1 Satin stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Filled flower fill the shape with parallel strokes laid side to side 2 Satin stitch · SZ25 Pine · Filled leaves fill each shape with parallel strokes sloping up to the right 3 Back stitch · SZ36 Sand · Fold lines over the filling work each line down towards the left, one at a time 4 Stem stitch · SZ25 Pine · Stem work the line top to bottom, thread always on the same sideYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ14 Deep Berry 10.6 m · SZ25 Pine 1.9 m · SZ36 Sand 40 cmWork order
- Fold lines over the filling (3)
- Stem (4)
- Filled flower (1)
- Filled leaves (2)
Drawn in the whiplash line the 1900s put on everything: the stem changes its mind twice on the way up, the bloom sits slightly off the top of it, and the two leaves are stretched far longer than a real one.
Stitch key
1 Stem stitch · SZ23 Olive · Whiplash stem work the line top to bottom, thread always on the same side 2 Chain stitch · SZ12 Rose · Stylised bloom work the outline clockwise, starting at the dot on the map, each loop holding the last 3 Whipped back stitch · SZ14 Deep Berry · Bloom heart work each line down towards the left, one at a time, then whip back over it 4 Split stitch · SZ27 Teal · Elongated leaves work each outline anticlockwise, starting at the dot on the map 5 French knot · SZ31 Lilac · Knots along the stem work the knots last, on the printed spotsYou need
2 strands · embroidery needle size 7 · any hoop or frame that clears the drawing · SZ23 Olive 70 cm · SZ12 Rose 80 cm · SZ14 Deep Berry 1.0 m · SZ27 Teal 70 cm · SZ31 Lilac 40 cmWork order
- Whiplash stem (1)
- Stylised bloom (2)
- Bloom heart (3)
- Elongated leaves (4)
- Knots along the stem (5)
How to read one of these transfers
- The drawing is a transfer, not a chart. Print it at 100 per cent and it comes out at the finished size printed on the card.
- Every numbered circle points at one line of the drawing. The stitch key gives that number a stitch, a thread code and a colour.
- A closed shape in the key marked satin stitch is meant to be filled solid. Everything else is worked along the line itself.
- Trace it with a water soluble pen against a window or a lightbox, or tack tissue paper over the fabric and tear it away afterwards.
Stitches on this page
Fourteen stitches carry all thirty one roses on this page, and none of them needs more than a needle, a hoop and a spare evening to learn. Every diagram below shows where the needle goes in and out, in numbered order, and points you at the rose that uses that stitch most, so you can practise on the real thing instead of on a doodle.
Back stitch
The Tight Rosebud is back stitch from the first line to the last, and the Outline Rose for Beginners never leaves it.
Straight stitch
The Woven Wheel Rose starts as five straight spokes, and the Geometric Rose uses straight stitch for its short runs.
Stem stitch
The Half Open Rose works its cup in stem stitch, and the Narrow Rose Cuff Band runs it along the whole hem.
Split stitch
The Botanical Rose Study draws its serrated leaf edges in split stitch, where a fine unbroken line matters.
Chain stitch
The Full Bloom Rose wraps its whole silhouette in chain stitch, and the Rose Tote Bag Panel is chain almost throughout.
Whipped back stitch
The Folk Rose whips its spiral heart, and the Art Nouveau Rose whips the long whiplash curve of its stem.
Lazy daisy
The Lazy Daisy Rosebud builds every bud from these loops; most leaves on this page are one loop each too.
Satin stitch
The Satin Stitch Rose shapes its petals for this fill, and the Filled Silhouette Rose is one satin shape.
Long and short stitch
The Shaded Rose bands its petals for long and short stitch so the pinks blend from rim to base.
French knot
The French Knot Rose packs its heart with these knots, and the Rose Wreath dots them between its blooms.
Seed stitch
The French Knot Rose scatters seed stitch behind its knots as loose pollen.
Couching
The Rose Tote Bag Panel couches its heaviest outline so the line stays bold on thick canvas.
Bullion knot
The Bullion Rose is nine of these coils curled round each other, and nothing else.
Woven wheel rose
The Woven Wheel Rose is this stitch three times over, one wheel per bloom, about four minutes each.
What is on this page
These are surface embroidery patterns, which means each one is a drawing rather than a grid. You print the sheet, trace the lines onto your fabric, put it in a hoop and stitch along them freehand. There is no counting, no aida cloth and no symbol chart, and that is the whole difference between this page and the rest of this site.
Every sheet carries the same three things: the drawing at actual size, a numbered circle on each line of it, and a stitch key that turns each of those numbers into a stitch, one of our thread codes and a plain colour name. Nothing on a sheet is unlabelled and nothing in a key points at a line that is not there, which is checked before a pattern is published rather than hoped for afterwards.
How to get the drawing onto the fabric
Print at 100 per cent, never fit to page, or the finished size printed on the card stops being true. The easiest transfer method needs nothing you do not already have: tape the sheet to a bright window, tape the fabric over it and trace the lines with a water soluble pen or a sharp pencil. In the evening a tablet with a white screen does the same job. For dark or thick fabric, tack a sheet of tissue paper over the cloth, stitch through both and tear the tissue away at the end.
Two strands of six strand cotton is the default for everything here unless a pattern says otherwise, and the small designs are better in one. Work the numbers roughly in order: outlines first, then any shape marked satin or long and short, then the knots last, so nothing you have already raised gets flattened under the side of your hand.
Which rose to start with
If you have never done surface embroidery, start in the outline group: those designs are back stitch and stem stitch from the first line to the last, with no filling anywhere, and the build refuses to publish one that quietly uses satin or a bullion. The tiny pocket corner is thirty millimetres wide and finishes in an evening. After that the woven wheel is the fastest route to something that looks difficult, because the whole flower is one spiral woven over five straight spokes and it takes about four minutes per rose.
Threads, hoops and finished size
Every pattern lists its threads with our own codes and plain colour names, so you can match them to whatever brand you already own rather than buying a specific catalogue number. The finished size printed on each card is measured off the drawing itself, and the sheet is scaled to it, so a pattern that says nine centimetres across really is nine centimetres across on paper. Where a design was drawn for a hoop, the sheet also prints that hoop as a dashed circle so you can centre the fabric before the first stitch goes in.
Every design here is our own
Not one of these drawings is traced, scanned, bought or lifted from another designer's transfer, and none of them is a licensed character. They are built out of curves written by hand in code, which is why we can give them away. The license page sets out what you may do with them, and the short version is that you can stitch them, print them, teach with them and sell the pieces you make. For the other motifs on this side of the site, the cat embroidery patterns page is drawn to the same weight and uses the same stitch key, so a rose and a cat sit together on one piece of cloth without looking mismatched, and the sunflower embroidery patterns page brings the garden's other flower to the same shelf. If counting squares suits you better, the cross stitch patterns page is the counted half of this site, and the Pattern Maker will chart a picture of your own onto a grid in a few seconds.
How to use these embroidery transfers
- Print the PDF at 100 per cent. The drawing is actual size, so it fits the hoop the pattern names without any scaling.
- Trace the lines onto your fabric, then put it in the hoop drum tight. Two strands of stranded cotton is the default here unless the pattern says otherwise.
- Work the numbers in order: outlines first, filled shapes next, knots last, so nothing already stitched gets flattened under your hand.
Common questions
How do I transfer the drawing onto my fabric?
Print the sheet at 100 per cent, tape it to a bright window, tape your fabric over the top and trace the lines with a water soluble pen. A tablet with a blank white page open does the same job after dark. For dark or heavy fabric the window trick fails, so tack a piece of tissue paper over the cloth, stitch straight through both layers and tear the tissue away at the end.
How many strands of thread should I use?
Two strands of six strand cotton for everything on this page unless the pattern says otherwise, which is fine for outlines, satin and knots alike. Drop to one strand for the pocket corner and the cuff band, where two would make the line thicker than the shape it is drawing. Go up to three only for the tote panel, which is on canvas and needs the weight.
What size hoop do I need?
Each pattern that was drawn for a hoop names it on the card and prints it as a dashed circle on the sheet, so you can centre the fabric before the first stitch. The ones without a hoop size are bands, corners and long stems that are worked in a frame, in a smaller hoop moved along as you go, or simply in the hand.
I have never done embroidery. Which pattern is genuinely the easiest?
The outline rose in the technique group. It is back stitch and stem stitch from the first line to the last, with no filled shape anywhere, and the build will not publish a pattern marked beginner that quietly uses a satin or a bullion. After that try the tiny pocket corner, which is thirty millimetres wide and finishes in an evening.
What is a bullion knot and do I need one?
It is a knot you make by wrapping the thread round the needle five or six times and then pulling the needle through the wraps, which gives a fat little rolled sausage of thread. Six of them arranged in a coil make a rose on their own. You do not need one for anything else here: exactly one pattern on this page uses them, and it is labelled.
Can I sell what I stitch from these patterns?
Yes. Sell the finished pieces you stitched yourself, anywhere, with nothing to pay and no permission to ask for. What you cannot do is sell the transfer sheet or re-upload the PDF elsewhere. Every drawing here is our own, which is why it can be given away, and the license page puts the whole thing in plain words.